Join the Club

For exclusive offers, promotions, and our weekly newsletter (which includes a cocktail column). Enjoy.

No Thanks
We always strive to create the best quality products for our guys, so in lieu of googling ‘what to look for in a suit’, we’ve created our own short list for you to consider when purchasing a garment of substantial quality:

There are countless listicles online stating ‘the top 10 things to look for in a suit’, which typically highlight the more superficial aspects of a tailored garment, like working buttonholes (which, if buying off the rack, create a painfully expensive tailoring problem when shortening the sleeves),  or super 180s+ fabric.

Once you have tried the discount suit, which either comes with a bunch of freebies or the lure of ‘cheap custom’, certain drawbacks of discount tailoring become more and more apparent.  Whether it’s a big promotion at work or a personal ethos shift, the impetus to invest in quality and buy for value is a coming-of-age moment.
 
-Focus on fit: Does it hug your shoulders lightly? Does the length of the jacket hit at your crotch line? Does it lie smoothly on your neckline?  When a jacket fits correctly, it will help you (visually) lose 20 lbs and appear taller and stronger.  Things just about every guy can use.

-Where is it made? Suits made in Italy tend to be very soft and suits made in England a bit more structured.  Both countries have stricter quality controls than anything made in Asia.  We’re a bit biased, but we think the best suits are made right here in America. The tailoring style in America reflects our work ethic — they are made for the long haul.  We imagine you’ll want to wear your first good suit a lot, so it's important to buy something that will last.

-How it is made? There is a misconception that everyone should have a ‘full canvas’ jacket.  While canvassing is, by far, the most important aspect of a jacket’s construction, we urge you to look more at how the jacket molds to your body than for the buzzword itself.  There is such a thing as a poorly-made full canvas jacket and the construction method in itself is not necessarily an indicator of quality.  Remember, the Aston Martin Lagonda compared to the DB5…

-What is the Fabric? Many suits will boast super 180s or super 250s wools but, if you know your wools, it is nothing to boast about at all.  Super numbers refer to how thin a wool fiber is spun before weaving it into fabric.  In short, the finer the fiber, the finer the fabric, but the finer the fabric, the faster it wears out. Not something very practical in your first good suit. Fun Fact: Our favorite mill, Vitale Barberis, does not make a fabric over a super 160s.  In order to get a fabric that is finer, a mill has to do some pretty inhumane things to sheep, like starving them and keeping them out of sunlight to alter their natural wool growth.  So, when you are considering that 200s fabric, just remember those starving, bleary eyed sheep.

-A note on color: Many guys struggle with the color of their first good suit. Grey? Navy? …Black? Our advice is to think about what works best with your daily life.  If you like blues, go with a navy.  If you tend to gravitate towards neutrals, maybe a nice mid grey or charcoal will work best.  Just remember, since this will be your first (good) suit, we want you to wear it often.  People will notice a big check or windowpane, but who’s to say you don’t have a closet full of 5 navy suits?

When buying a great suit, consider the foundation instead of just the details.  Like all things in life, substance matters more than flash.  You wear the suit, not the other way around.

-Read

Leave a comment

This blog is moderated.