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‘Clothes that fit’ is a term that gets thrown around in a very broad ways these days. ‘Fitted’ or ‘tailored’ mean different things to those who know and those who don’t.

Through the early 90s, a full cut was en vogue, popularized by Giorgio Armani and then in early Purple Label designs. Done well, this fit has a beautiful drape of fabric while still accentuating strong shoulders and a lightly nipped waist; done poorly, and the fit is just plain too big. The 2000s saw a trimmer, more Saville row inspired fit come to prominence. In high-end bespoke tailoring, a very trim fit can be achieved through precise measurements and nuance guiding every lump and fold of the body into symmetry through time and skill. Done well, this is the pinnacle of a trim silhouette while maintaining comfort and ease of movement. Done poorly — especially skewed on the too-small side — the tensile strength of the garment is tested in ways that make otherwise well-proportioned men appear lumpy and out of shape.

Trends aside, the ideal fit — which is trim without compromising movement, draped without excess — is timeless. Guys recently have overcorrected, walking — or waddling — around in clothes far too small. Men’s legs are meant to move, not split seams; jackets should button without stress. Fit isn’t rocket science, but it is an art: just find the perfect balance of ease with the least amount of excess fabric, never stepping too far over the line. And if you need help, we might know a guy.


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