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 Many guys love the idea of fun jacket linings. Motifs that have some personal connection are the best— like guitars, cars, or college colors — but going wild for wild’s sake is a mistake. It is a misnomer that a crazy liner is an indication of a custom suit; all it means is that you picked the liner. 

Sure, when you are wearing the jacket buttoned, no one will see the liner. But how often is that the case? Men wear their jackets open most of the time, if they are wearing them at all, and the lining is more visible than you would think. So if you are considering a lining that would be embarrassing in certain company (looking at you, mudflap girls), think again.

The lining, while important for the longevity and comfort of the coat, is one of the least important details when designing your coat. It should be a fabric that wicks sweat, thus keeping you more comfortable, and it should be smooth so it doesn’t cling to your shirt. This is generally a cupro or bemberg fabric — they are more durable than traditional silk liners and perform better, too.

What makes a custom suit custom is the fit of the garment. And the quality of the garment depends on how well it takes a beating, not the boldness of the liner.

That being said, on a well-constructed jacket, the liner will give out over time — its not nearly as durable as a fine wool. Sometimes watches get caught on sleeves. Sometimes reaching for an interior pocket over and over again will cause the fibers to say ‘enough’. Liners are sewn in with loose stitches for a reason: they take a beating and occasionally will take some undue stress. When you see the lining fall at a seam, be thankful that the lining was sewn in this way — if it wasn’t, the liner itself would rip, which is a much more difficult fix.

And when your liner does eventually give out, you can always get your coat re-lined. It’s a process similar to re-soling a shoe; the structure is still sound, but the pressure areas require some reinforcement. When a garment is made well, you might re-line a coat a few times. And each time you do, you will have an opportunity to reconsider your decision on whether to go with a wild liner or keep it simple. So consider the situation and choose wisely.

-Read


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